Sunday, 5 October 2014

Warsaw

24 September
Feeling lazy tonight so have dinner in the  hotel restaurant where they are offering potato pancakes with mushroom plus a glass of wine for 29 zloty
25 September
The room at the hotel would have a great view if it wasn't covered by a giant advertising hoarding for what I think is a TV series. 


The window of my room is behind the CZW of CZWARTEK

Good buffet breakfast in the hotel. First job of the day is to get my ticket to Cologne. Walk down to the Central station find the ticket office and it is all very quick an efficient. Get a small discount because I am over 60. 



Next job is to buy a new phone since my old one is dieing, cannot charge the battery. As in Singapore, most shops are trying to sell a phone contract  but according to Google there is a Samsung shop in the Arcadia shopping mall about two stops on the metro from the hotel. Also get list of phones which will accept standard size SIM card. Get a one day ticket for the public transport and find the Arcadia shopping mall with no problem
It is huge. Not so easy to find the Samsung store but when I do find a phone that is the same size as mine and , takes a standard SIM card,. it is also the cheapest of those on display. The very helpful sales guy seems quite shocked that I actually want to buy it. His colleague sets it up in English for me and Samsung has a happy customer.  Have a look round the shopping mall while I am here. Can match any in Singapore or anywhere else I can imagine. Not hungry but look at the food court upstairs where I can even get Pad Thai!   Get the tram back to the hotel and leave new phone to charge. Now all I need is to learn how to use it!

Arcadia Shopping Mall 

Strikes me that many aspects of life are so simple now provided you have money or the right plastic card, the right passport and speak English. So simple to book hotels, buy tickets, go to supermarkets, got to restaurants, et etc.

Use my one day tram ticket to go to the old city and explore. I think, alone of all the cities destroyed in WW 2, Warsaw decided to rebuild the old city as it was. In retrospect it was  brilliant decision. Looking at it, there is no way the casual observer  would know that it dated from the 1950's.  but it does make us question what we mean by authentic. One conclusion  is that architects up to WW2 were much better at designing spaces that  make people feel comfortable and happy than those who came later. At strategic places there are copies of Canallettos showing the space in the 1700's which allow you to compare it with now. It was a real pleasure to walk around. Get the feeling that  history is still a very hot topic here. In a courtyard of the palace there was an exhibition celebration get the partisans  who fought against the invades Nazi in the West  and Soviet in the East. I think in Britain we are always aware of Hitler invading Poland but the Soviet invasion a few days later is ignored. Many of the partisans, after fighting the Nazis, and joining forces with the Red Army to "liberate" Poland  were then arrested and either deported or executed by the Soviet occupying forces or the later communist government.

Main Square and Royal Palace in Old City of Warsaw

Another Square in Old City of Warsaw

Amber Shop in Old City of Warsaw
I kept coming across images of battling mermaids in most unusual places. This is the story I found


Battling Mermaids, The symbol of Warsaw: Statue in a Square, On Cathedral Door, on Lamp post and on Battery Charging Point
By late afternoon it was getting chilly and threatening to rain, so got the tram to the hotel. Left it rather late to go out for dinner and realised the place I was planning to go  was further than I thought and may already have accepted last orders, so tried another huge shopping mall near the Central Station but the places there were all closing down for the night. Close to the Central Station the Palace of Culture and Science,  Warsaw's answer to Moscow's Seven Sisters looms out of the darkness.
 Palace of Culture and Science, A "gift" from the Soviet Union and originally named after Stalin
By shear chance found the nearby Hard Rock Cafe, which, unlike the one in Finland was still serving food. My burger and Murphy's stout were not exactly what I had planned but were very welcome!  

Murphy's in Hard Rock Cafe

26 September
After breakfast set out to explore part of the so called "Royal Route" because it was lined with the palaces of the aristocrats. It is very pleasant with lots of pavement cafes but not desperately exciting. See part of the University of Warsaw and   an interesting exhibition in a small park showing the changes in Warsaw since 1989 when it was, in the words of the introductory poster, a grey, dismal city.  There are also  several reminders of the Warsaw uprising of 1944. Further along the Royal Route is the President's palace, in front of which is a massive poster  celebrating the Solidarity movement which started the liberalisation of Poland

Pavement Cafes in Nowy Świat

Continue to walk past the huge National Theatre and on to the monument commemorating the uprising in the Warsaw ghetto in 1943. There is a massive and impressive new museum, "History of Polish Jews" adjacent to it but the main exhibition does not open until next month. 
Monument commemorating the uprising in the Warsaw ghetto


Had a late lunch of baked cod, potatoes, sauce and  sauerkraut and a beer in a semi self service restaurant, Viking,  in the shopping mall next to the station. 
Zywiec. Easier to point to than to say!

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