On arrival in Hue I avoided the
touts and chose the furthest taxi from the station entrance which took me to the
hotel for a very reasonable 50 000 Dong.
Not very far but as we passed many other pleasant looking hotels I was
wondering whether I had made a mistake in paying a high price for the Hotel
Saigon Morin. As soon as I arrived my concerns were banished. If you want old
style luxury in the Raffles & E&O style for a reasonable price this is
the place to come!
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Hotel Saigon Morin
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Long Corridor |
The room is beautiful; WiFi works a
treat and there is bowl of fruit. In fairness "Beautiful Saigon" also provided a bowl of
fruit. Hotel Saigon Morin proclaims its heritage loudly with "since
1901" emblazoned everywhere. Like many of these "heritage"
hotels it is a bit of a fake. Just about the only continuity between the 1901
hotel and the present one is the plot of
land it is on. In the 1950s the building was taken over by the University of
Hue which remained until the 1980s. Then it returned to being a hotel but a
budget one aimed at backpackers. When it was transformed into an upmarket hotel
in the 1990s it miraculously added another floor and repeated the process
sometime after 1998. So now it is four floors rather than the original two. But for all that it is a lovely
place to stay!
Went out for lunch in a place nearby, An Dinh Vien which I found
by accident.. Housed in a lovely traditional mansion i confess to beong lured
in by the very charming lady in charge and ordered some Hue style spring rolls
pork wrapped round sugarcane and a Huda beer. The food was excellent, generous
portions and the beer was cold. It wasn't cheap by Vietnamese standards coming
to about 120 000 dong, <US$6 for a feast!. It's in Trip advisor with very
mixed reviews; one review omplains that it is overpriced but it seems on a par
with other places aimed at tourists.
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Restored mansion Housing An Dinh Vien Restaurant
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Hue Style Spring Rolls and Pork on Sugarcane |
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And a Huda Beer |
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The lady in charge? with her baby |
Returned to the hotel to relax and chill out. Set out later to look at
the Citadel which I visited before about 5 years ago. It looks better at night.
Created by the "emperors" of Vietnam when they were little more than
French puppets, it was intended to be Vietnam's answer to the forbidden city in
Beijing. Maybe it succeded but war has massively damaged it and I was not that
impressed when I visited before. Floodlights work miracles!
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Vietnam laying claim to its Offshore Islands. In Hue station they also display maps showing the islands as part of French Indochina |
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Perfume River in Hue |
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Citadel |
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Part of Hue Citadel outside the Ramparts |
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For my Book Loving Friends |
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Haunted House in Hue? |
According to Trip Advisor the best
bars in Hue are DMZ and Brown Eyes, both less than 1 km from the hotel and in
the same direction. First one I reached was
DMZ which didn't look very lively so I walked on to Brown Eyes. This is
obviously where all the young backpacker
crowd hang out. It was heaving with a large crowd dancing at the far end of the
bar. The two guys closest to me looked like they had just jumped off a Viking
longboat but seemed content to drink beer rather than go on a spree of rape and
pillage. I had a Huda beer and wished I was 25. Not many times I have
wished to be 25 again bu this was one of
them. If you are under 40 in Hue Brown Eyes is the place to be.
Ok, you've sold Hue to me. Now added to my travel wish list.
ReplyDeleteFor some reason I wasn't that taken with Hue the first time I visited. The citadel, which is its claim to fame, suffered huge damage during the war and you need a lot of imagination to see it as it was.
DeleteThat hotel looks wonderful, and the room looks to be on a par with the original Lisboa in Macau (even including all the gold leaf and gold threads).
ReplyDeleteI agree that evening lighting on old buildings makes them look pristine. The Castle overlooking Budapest is the same -- looks perfect from the city but somewhat in need of renovation when examined more closely.
I'll wait for the next posting to see if you've been for a trip on that perfumed river.
No I didn't take a trip on the Perfume river this time. When I was here previously with N, a few years ago, we took a combined river and motorbike trip to see the mausoleums of the emperors. Totally over the top 19th century extravagance.
ReplyDelete